Monday, September 9

Andrea and I visit Notre Dame and the Louvre. We all have dinner at an Italian restaurant and then go to Caveau de la Huchette.

Just read that Apple is introducing the new iPhone on Tuesday. How's that for good timing? It seems that I need a new phone!

Paris forecast for today is light rain and very cool (high about 61F). Waiting for kids to wake up in apt (it's 8:30 am). We've got umbrellas and warm clothes so I think we'll manage. I got a very good night's sleep. Hope the kids did too.

Jeremy showed up with presents - eclairs and diet coke. No clue about Andrea yet. So we're passing the time studying Euler's negative solution to the celebrated bridges of Königsberg problem. Nice way to pass the time on a chilly morning in Paris while waiting for the sibling/daughter to wake up.

Andrea came over. We tried to go out but it is raining hard. We're back in the apt hoping it lets up later on.

Still raining at 3 pm but starting to let up a bit. Went out and got 3 falafel sandwiches at the funky Lebanese place on rue Descartes. Still holed up here but not too sad because it's nice to take it easy after the last several days. After lunch we're going to see what the weather is doing. Definitely le Caveau de la Huchette late tonight though. Boogie Phil & his Rhythm Devils are playing tonight. Can't miss that!

Andrea and I finally went out when the rain let up and turned into just a mist/drizzle. Jeremy stayed home to do laundry. We took the métro up to Pont Marie and strolled through Île St-Louis. Andrea did a bit of shopping in the tiny boutiques. Crossed the bridge over to Île de la Cité. Because of the rain, there were almost no tourists in front of Notre Dame and no line to get in, so we went in. Very beautiful and awe-inspiring. Then we crossed over to the right bank and strolled up rue de Rivoli to the Louvre. No lines at the Louvre! Unheard! So we went in and spent a few hours. She got to see the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. Took the métro back home.

It takes lots longer to walk through Île St-Louis with a woman than it does with a man, unless you're a woman.

We ate dinner at an Italian restaurant on rue Descartes, pizza and pasta, then went up to Caveau de la Huchette to listen to jazz. Not my music, or my kid's. Too old for either of us. Not our dancing either. But really good and fun for a change. Wish I could dance like that. It would be so much fun! It was so obvious that these dancers were having the time of their lives doing this.

Here's a YouTube vido of the same band playing at the Caveau de la Huchette last year. They've been playing this kind of jazz at this same club for over 60 years, since it first took off in the underground Paris scene right after Paris was liberated at the end of WWII. Still very popular in Paris, very much a part of the history and culture of the city. One of our lectures at the Sorbonne was all about the history of jazz on the left bank in the period after the war. The dancing and the music in the club tonight was exactly the same as that shown in the old movies from the 40s in the lecture.

The bartender and the bouncer with only one good eye are very friendly and like to joke around with all the customers. Friendly place.

So you have a few beers and leave and walk out the door of this building that's many many hundreds of years old and has so much history (Robespierre etc.) and look up and there's old Notre Dame towering over you just across the river. You stagger home more or less in a straight line through the Latin Quarter well after midnight, wondering whether all those people out on the streets have to go to work in the morning. What a city. I am going to miss it SO MUCH.

Breakfast. Fresh croissant and pain au chocolat from a boulangerie on rue Monge. How am I going to live next week back home without this? Sure, I could get in my car and drive somewhere and get it, but I won't bother because it's too much hassle. It won't be just down on the corner, just baked, making the whole street corner smell good. Sigh.

Dancers and on the far right, Boogie Phil & the Rhythm Devils. Great old music.

On the left in the back there's a couple, a guy in a blue shirt and a blond woman. She really wanted to dance and was quite good, him not so much, had to be coaxed quite a bit. Very cute.

The lady near the middle and her partner in the red shirt were quite good too. And the older gent near the right edge in the white shirt was really good and was dancing with pretty much all the woman at one point or another.

This couple was incredible. They could have been on Dancing with the Stars. He was throwing her between his legs, up in the air, all over the place. Just like in the old movies from the 40s. Fantastic dancers. Knew the band well, lots of air kissing going on during the break. What a blast. The photo is blurry because they were moving so fast.